Spicebomb Dark Leather is a HUGE letdown (Explained)
Spicebomb Dark Leather is a complete failure. I totally obsess over the Spicebomb range so you know my expectations were sky high. But this 2024 release is one of Viktor & Rolf’s worst yet. Dark Leather is a shallow, mediocre smell with a deceitful name. To say I’m disappointed is an understatement. If that wasn’t bad enough, wait until you hear about the projection and longevity. I’m pulling no punches today guys, let’s dig in.
What does Dark Leather smell like?
Spicebomb Dark Leather contains black pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, frankincense, and tobacco.
Did you notice what’s missing?
There’s leather in the name, but none in the scent.
But before we get into that, let’s cover the rest of the aroma first.
On initial spray it smells very familiar. It’s immediately reminiscent of the Spicebomb DNA, featuring a spicy punch of smoky black pepper and warm nutmeg.
Once it develops, cinnamon intervenes. Which, again, is comparable to prior Spicebomb releases – primarily Infrared EDP. It adds only a hint of sweetness to the blend. Concurrently, frankincense is also slightly noticeable with its ambery hues.
It doesn’t take long to transition to the dry down. And with that comes the controversy.
There’s plenty of tobacco. It smells masculine and dry whilst also bolstering the earlier smoky facets.
However, there’s almost zero leather. Sadly, I was expecting something buffed, supple and authentic. An accord comparable to Tom Ford Ombre Leather. But nope. Officially, there is leather listed. But what’s actually detectable to the nose is another thing entirely.
Overall, this cologne smells dark and brooding with very little sweetness to speak of. Given the likeness, I suspect this is Viktor & Rolf’s response to Bvlgari Man in Black.
However, this is nothing more than a cheap imitation.
Dark Leather lacks the depth and nuance of that release. There’s no balance, scarce sweetness and zero complexity. In summary, it’s a smokier interpretation of the original Spicebomb with added tobacco. That’s it. That’s a bloody tough sell with the price they’re asking.
What do other people say?
So far, reviews online are mixed. Here’s some I found on Fragrantica:
Largely a letdown. For me it isn’t strong and performance isn’t great. Smell is ok, nothing special, but not worth the price tag. Like a watered down ombre leather, like very watered down. Leather note leaves quickly and is replaced by a very weak scent that makes it nearly impossible to distinguish any notes.
Quite peppery and the cinnamon noticeable. As it is drying down it smells very familiar and definitely has a resemblance to Bvlgari Man In Black on my skin. I would say the leather is soft and the tobacco note is slightly sweet. A nice release perfect for autumn/winter.
Rating performance and versatility
Dark Leather features beast mode performance, the best in the Spicebomb range yet!
That’s what I desperately wanted to be true. I wanted the performance to redeem the underwhelming aroma.
Unfortunately, it sucks. Badly.
Without reservation, the longevity and sillage are a big step down from past entries. Consequently, I’ve discovered it projects moderately off skin for the first 30 minutes. Then it becomes a skin scent, lasting for up to 4 total hours.
Seasonally, it can be worn during moderate and cooler days. Casual events, social outings and date night are all situations it can be used for. However, I prefer Spicebomb Extreme in every single one of those scenarios.
I’m dunking on Dark Leather for good reason.
Spicebomb Dark Leather ranks too poorly for me to recommend it in good faith.
The absence of leather is a supreme disappointment. Plus, I was expecting more complexity and boldness given the name. Which I’ve found to be completely misleading.
Dark Leather has taught me that Viktor & Rolf releases are no longer an automatic acquisition.
Stick to the predecessors, some of which I’ve linked above. There’s nothing new here that you can’t already acquire.